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St Paul's Steps Travel
128, 3rd Septemvriou str,
104 34 Athens, Greece
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NEAPOLIS
(KAVALA)
The vission
that Paul the Apostle saw in his sleep, while in Troas (Troy),
of a tall Macedonian standing before him and beseeching him:
"Come over to Macedonia and help us" (Acts 16:9),
was decisive for his course from there onwards and inaugurated
his remarkable salvationary relationship with the Greeks. He had
already embarked on his second journey, for the purpose of consolidating
and augmenting the Churches he had founded.
In
the winter of AD 49, Paul landed on European soil for the first
time, at Neapolis, site of the modem city of Kavala, after a voyage
lasting two days, assisted by a fair wind. Some seven years later,
when he visited this place for a second time (AD 56), it took
him five days to cover the same distance.
Neapolis,
a colony of the Thasians according to scholarly consensus, an
important harbour opposite Thasos and close to the delta of the
River Nestos, was founded around 500 BC and developed
into a thriving commercial centre. It is located on the ancient
route that, following the physical configuration of the land,
linked Thrace with Macedonia. From study of the historical sources,
it seems that the Persians marched through Neapolis in 490 BC,
in their expedition to southern Greece, and Alexander the Great
likewise passed this way en route for Asia Minor.
Significant
evidence for determining the date of the founding of Neapolis
is its silver coinage, the first inscribed issues of which are
dated to the years around 500 BC and bear a gorgoneion (head of
the mythical monster Gorgon) on the obverse and an incuse square
or swastika on the reverse. In order to distinguish this currency
from that of other homonymous cities (Neapolis means "new
city"), the legend reads "Neapolis in Thrace" or
"Neapolis beside Antisara".
The
city is included in the fiscal lists of Athens from 454 BC and
Thracian Neapolis was always a steadfast ally of the Athenians.
Fragments of two honorific decrees for Neapolis, dating from the
last decade of the fifth century BC, were found on the Acropolis
of Athens. After 340 BC, when Philip II of Macedon was sovereign
of the region, Neapolis lost her autonomy and references to the
city are rare. The name Neapolis is preserved on a milestone (miliarion)
dating from the reign of Hadrian (AD 106-107) on the Via Egnatia,
while another milestone from the Egnatia, this one dating from
the late second century AD, was found in Neapolis itself. Only
scant remains of the Early Christian period have been identified.
In the environs of the church of St Nicholas, where tradition
has it that Paul the Apostle and his companions disembarked, as
well as in the church of the Virgin, fragments of Early Christian
closure slabs, mullions and columns have come to light. The modern
town of Kavala, which occupies the site of Neapolis, appears in
literary sources from the early ninth century under the name Christoupolis
(= "city of Christ"), whereas it probably acquired its
present name in the mid-fifteenth century.
It
was at that time (mid-15th century AD) that the mosque (cami)
of Ibrahim Pasha was built by the Ottoman Turks; this is now the
church of St Nicholas, in the town centre. In recent years the
spa in front of this monument has been laid out, using spolia
from Early Christian buildings, and a work by the well-known artist
F. Varlamis placed there. This painting, in oil on canvas, is
a representation of the moment Paul the Apostle first came ashore
in Europe.
Paul
the Apostle came ashore in the area of St Nicholas and, following
the Via Egnatia, headed directly for Philippi, "which is
the chief city of that part of Macedonia, a colony" (Acts
16:12) and 12 kilometres away from Neapolis. He was accompanied
by Silas, Timothy and the physician Luke, the Evangelist and author
of the Acts of the Apostles.
The
Via Egnatia, a long military highway linking Dyrrhachium on the
Adriatic with Byzantium, was constructed between 146 and 120 BC
and named after the proconsul who supervised this engineering
feat, Gnaius Egnatius. The road was a decisive factor in the development
of the cities near which it passed. Paved sections of the Via
Egnatia have been uncovered in Kavala, in front of and behind
the monastery of St Silas. The section from the "Egnatia"
Hotel, in the town, as far as the col of the hill on which the
monastery stands, has been restored recently as a pleasant "promenade".
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PHILIPPI
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Human
habitation at the site later occupied by the city of Philippi
goes back some five thousand years before the Nativity of Christ,
as attested by the prehistoric settlement of Dikili-Tas, excavated
in the vicinity. Many centuries later, after 360 BC, Thasians
led by the Athenian Kallistratos founded a colony hereabouts,
intent on exploiting the rich and fertile region around. They
named the place Krenides, on account of the numerous springs.
Two major rivers, the Strymon and the Nestos, water its earth.
Close to the forested Mt Pangaion, rich in metal ores, and in
the verdant foothills of Mt Orbelos, the colonists struggled to
establish a foothold, as they suffered from the relentless pressures
of the indigenous Thracian tribes. They eventually resorted to
Philip for assistance, and the monarch, realizing the location's
potential, both in terms of natural resources and as a node of
communications, settled colonists in the city, fortified it and
renamed it Philippi (356 BC). After the battle between the warring
factions of Romans, at Philippi in 42 BC, and the defeat of the
Republicans, the newly instituted emperor settled Roman colonists
and veterans there. The city became a Roman colony and was renamed
Colonia Augusta Julia Philippensis, and its inhabitants given
the rights and privileges of Roman citizens. Veterans (veterani)
was the term used of retired Roman soldiers of all ranks, who
left the army after serving from between 12 and 26 years.
The
importance of the city of Philippi is attested by its extensive
archaeological site and especially the Early Christian basilicas.
The city was traversed by the Via Egnatia, which divided it into
two. Sections of this road survive on the north side of the forum
of Philippi, close to the present baptistery, on the River Zygaktes.
Very
few Jews were living in Philippi during the period of Paul’s
visit, which is why there was no synagogue. On the Sabbath, however,
they gathered on the bank of the River Zygaktes, a tributary of
the Strymon, in an evocative landscape. On the first Sabbath that
Paul went to this place, the womenfolk had assembled and they
were the first people In Europe to hear the Apostle preach. Among
them was Lydia, a pious lady who hailed from Thyateira in Asia
Minor and sold purple from Phrygia, for dyeing luxurious textiles.
Lydia was the first person in Europe to be baptized a Christian
and played a decisive role in disseminating the Word of God (Acts
16:12-15).
As
Paul and his retinue were on their way down to the place of prayer,
they met a young slave girl "possessed with a spirit of divination
.. who brought her masters much profit by fortune telling"
(Acts 16:16). "These men are the servants of the Most High
God, who proclaim to us the way of salvation", (Acts 16:17),
she shouted as she followed the Apostle and his companions, and
repeated these word for several days. At one moment, the infuriated
Paul turned towards her and addressed the "spirit":
"I command you in the name of Jesus Christ to come out of
her" (Acts 16:18), and forthwith the "spirit of divination"
vanished. But the girl's masters lost their source of income as
a result of this deed and accused Paul and Silas of causing "exceeding
trouble in the city" and of teaching "customs which
are not lawful for us, being Romans, to receive or observe".
Paul and Silas were flogged and cast in jail. But an earthquake
that night spread panic. The doors of the jail opened and the
jailor attempted to commit suicide. The two Apostles prevented
him in the nick of time. He confessed his belief in God and was
baptized along with the members of his family, and welcomed Paul
and Silas into his home.
On
the morrow, the magistrates, astonished by the events of that
night, learnt that they had imprisoned Roman citizens. Terrified,
they apologized to the Apostles and begged them, for fear of riots,
to abandon the city.
The
Apostles left the house of Lydia, who had offered them hospitality,
and departed for Thessalonica. Paul the Apostle was to maintain
close ties with the Philippians, who supported him economically
on many occasions, even when he was incarcerated in Rome. It was
from Rome that he wrote the Epistle to the Philippians, in which,
among other things, he stresses: "Do all things without murmuring
and disputing, that you may become blameless and harmless, children
of God without fault in the midst of a crooked and perverse generation,
among whom you shine as lights in the world, holding fast the
word of life, so that I may rejoice in the day of Christ that
I have not run in vain or labored in vain" (Philippians 2:14-16).
Seven years after his first visit, Paul came to Philippi again,
in the autumn of AD 56, and subsequently made another three visits,
in April AD 57, spring AD 63 and winter AD 64.
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AMPHIPOLIS
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When
Paul the Apostle and Silas left Philippi, after their eventful
stay, they took the Via Egnatia and headed in haste for Thessalonica.
It
is recorded in the Acts of the Apostles that "... when they
had passed through Amphipolis and Apollonia, they came to Thessalonica
..." (17: 1), which means that although there were important
cities in the region, Paul passed them by without halting. He
was in a hurry to reach Thessalonica, where he knew "there
was a synagogue of the Jews", since this is mentioned at
the end of the passage cited.
However,
Amphipolis was one of the most important cities in Macedonia.
It was founded in 437 BC by General Hagnon, son of Nikias, on
the site of the earlier city of Ennea Hodoi, and was named so
because of the fact that it developed on both banks of the River
Strymon. This was a naturally fortified and strategic position
that controlled the fertile farm land and the sources of metal
ores. Amphipolis was the headquarters of the First Meris, one
of the four administrative regions into which the Romans divided
Macedonia. Alexander the Great had set out from Amphipolis on
his campaign of conquest and it was here that his wife Roxane
and her son were assassinated. It was the birthplace of Zoilos
Homeromastix ("Scourger of Homer"), the fourth-century
BC sophist, and of Pamphilos, teacher of Apelles and Pausias.
Much later it became an episcopal see and a significant religious
centre, as is indicated by the discovery of basilicas and an Early
Christian rotunda church in archaeological excavations.
Amphipolis is believed to have been destroyed some time in the
eighth or ninth century and to have been rebuilt in the thirteenth
or fourteenth. It is to this latter period that the remnants of
two towers, one on each bank of the Strymon, date. They belonged
to monasteries of Mt. Athos and were most probably used as storehouses,
while at the same time functioning as surveillance posts (vigles)
for the pass to the heartland.
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APOLLONIA
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Apollonia.
which Paul the Apostle and Silas passed by, like Amphipolis, was
an ancient city in Mygdaonia, Macedonia, built on the south shore
of Lake Bolbe in 432 BC and settled by colonists from Chalkis
in Euboea. Pride and joy of the city was the imposing temple of
Apollo, hence its name. The region, in which there is now a lacustrine
woodland, refuge of rare species of animals and birds, including
an impressive colony of herons, was particularly important in
military terms. This fact is confirmed not only in Roman and Byzantine
times but also during the Ottoman period. Close to the north side
of the Apollo temple was the “bema of Paul the Apostle”.
A spring whose waters ran a little way beyond was considered to
be his sacred fount (hagiasma).
In the early twentieth century Apollonia was known as Pazarouda,
because a weekly bazaar (pazari) took place there, mainly attended
by Turks. Though Muslims, they respected the miraculous power
of the water from the aforesaid spring, believing it to be an
antidote to evil. They also exploited these properties, by demanding
money from those pilgrims who came to the fount and took away
holy water.
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THESSALONICA
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When
Apostle Paul and Silas reached Thessalonica, in late autumn AD
49, they found a city completely different from those they had
encountered hitherto. A free city (librae conditionis) under Roman
sovereignty since 168 BC, when it was subjugated by the Roman
Consul Aemilius Paulus, as were the other cities of Macedonia,
after Perseus' crushing defeat at Pydna. It was the seat of a
proconsul and had a population of 200,000.
The
city was founded by Kassander in 315 BC and named after his wife
Thessalonike, sister of Alexander the Great. There was nothing
fortuitous in the choice of its location. For at least 2,500 years
before then, there were settlements dispersed throughout the fertile
plain watered by large rivers, the earliest of which date back
to the Neolithic Age. One of these settlements existed on the
site of Thessalonica, in the creek of the gulf mentioned by Herodotus
and used by Xerxes as a naval and military base in 480 BC, during
his campaign against Greece.
The
city spread from the seaboard to the acropolis hill, forming an
enormous square inside the walls, the earliest sections of which
are dated from Hellenistic times. Traversing the city centre was
the main East-West thoroughfare (decumanus maximus), the Via Regia
of the Romans, known as the Leophoros in the Byzantine Age, and
today’s modern Egnatias Street. It terminated to the west
at the imposing Golden Gate (Chryse Pyle), also known as the Gate
of the Vardari or Axios, after the river. Extra muros spread a
verdant, fertile plain with olive groves, vineyards and fields
of other crops. Thessalonica was a nodal point for communications:
crossroads of land routes through the Haemus Peninsula (Balkans)
and focus of sea-lanes from all the ports in the Mediterranean.
In
the early second century BC, Philip V granted the city the right
to mint its own bronze coinage. During this century there was
evidently civil strife and Roman interventions in the domestic
affairs of the Macedonian State. Thessalonica followed the fate
of the other cities of Northern Greece and was subjected to Rome.
From
the late first century BC Thessalonica was home to many Jews,
who were prosperous and held an important place in the economy.
As is recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, there was a synagogue
in the city, close to the harbour. Paul went there on three successive
Sabbaths. From the narrative of the Acts of the Apostle (17:2-3)
we learn that he had discussions with the congregants, interpreting
passages of the Holy Scripture referring to the fact that Christ
would be crucified and would arise from the dead. "This Jesus
whom I preach to you is the Christ", he declared with passion.
Some believed him and became disciples of Paul and Silas. Many
of the Greek proselytes to Judaism were convinced and so were
several women, from among the higher strata of the city's society.
The exact number of these first Christians is not known. However,
it is known for certain that a Church was founded in Thessalonica.
Paul's
activity in Thessalonica was not long in causing problems and
stirring up trouble, as had been the case in Philippi. The duration
of the Apostles' stay in the city is a matter for speculation.
Some biblical scholars consider that it was much longer than the
sojourn implied by the expression "for three Sabbaths"
(Acts 17:2).
The
Jews of Thessalonica exploited some suspicious persons in the
marketplace to incite the mob. Some headed for the home of the
convert Jason, believing that there they would find Paul and Silas,
who had managed to hide. They then dragged Jason violently before
the archons of the city (an institution carried over from Macedonian
Hellenism), along with some other Christians, and declaimed: "These
who have turned the world upside down have come here too. Jason
has harboured them, and these are all acting contrary to the decrees
of Caesar, saying there is another king Jesus" (Acts 17:6-7).
Jason was released on surety and the other Christians were freed
unconditionally, but there was general social unrest. Paul and
Silas left Thessalonica in the dead of night.
This
is what we know about Paul the Apostle's stay in Thessalonica.
Tradition has it that as he left in a hurry, pursued by his fellow
Jews, he escaped from a point high up in the city, in the vicinity
where the Vlatadon monastery was later founded, possibly exiting
the walls through a sally porte.
Not
far to the east of the spot where the Vlatadon monastery stands
today, there was a spring. According to local lore, Paul stopped
here to quench his thirst. He was commemorated annually at this
spring, known as the "hagiasma" of Apostle Paul. After
the liberation of Thessalonica from Ottoman rule, in 1912, a church
dedicated to Paul the Apostle was built and the hagiasma was enhanced.
Today a modern imposing church is evidence of the Apostle's visit
to Thessalonica, of his teaching and of the fruits born of the
seed he sowed.
Paul
quit Thessalonica in a hurry. But he never forgot the Christians
he left behind there. Proof of this are his two Epistles to the
Thessalonians, which bear witness to his unflagging interest in
their spiritual and social progress, encouraging, counselling
and thanking them. Further proof is the fact that he sent Timothy
to Thessalonica, to learn from him first hand of what was happening.
Both epistles were written in Corinth. The first is believed to
have been sent in AD 51-52 and the second perhaps early in AD
53. The second, it should be noted, was written by Paul, Silvanus
and Timothy.
In
the First Epistle, Paul exhorts the Thessalonians to desist from
prostitution and not to succumb to carnal lust. He refers to the
Second Coming, in the famous words: "But I do not want you
to be ignorant, brethren, concerning those who have fallen asleep,
lest you should sorrow as others who have no hope" (1 Thess.
4:13). For, as he stresses further on. "... God did not appoint
us to wrath but to obtain salvation through our Lord Jesus Christ"
(1 Thess. 5:9). Elsewhere he observes: "... you became followers
of us and of the Lord, having received the word in much affliction,
with joy of the Holy Spirit, so that you became examples to all
in Macedonia and Achaia who believe. For from you the word of
the Lord has sounded forth, not only in Macedonia and Achaia,
but also in every place. Your faith towards God has gone out,
so that we do not need to say anything. For they themselves declare
concerning us what manner of entry we had to you, and how you
turned to God from idols to serve the living and true God"
(1 Thess. 1:6-9).
The
aim of the Second Epistle is to clarify certain issues concerning
the Second Coming. Paul's teaching had whipped up such enthusiasm
in Thessalonica that some believers were of the opinion that the
Second Coming was "ante portas" and thus quit their
jobs and waited for it, without working. This epistle includes
the famous phrases: "if anyone will not work, neither shall
he eat" (II Thess. 3:10) and "… brethren, stand
fast and hold the traditions which you were taught, whether by
word or our epistle" (II Thess, 2:15).
When
Apostle Paul left Thessalonica in haste, he believed he would
return soon. Seven years were to pass, however, before this happened
and then again he was forced to hide from house to house. Nevertheless,
he forged close ties with this city and sung its praises, speaking
of the faith, patience, steadfastness and love of its citizens.
In Thessalonica Paul gained two important disciples. Secundus,
who accompanied him on his last journey, and Aristarchus, who
was incarcerated with him.
The
city's development after the triumph of Christianity more than
vindicates Paul's inordinate love and praise of this place. His
arrival in Thessalonica signalled the beginning of a new chapter
in her history. The emperors of the Late Roman period were interested
in Thessalonica and by capitalizing on her important strategic
position assisted her development into an important megalopolis
by the early fourth century AD. Galerius founded a separate palace
complex (4th c. AD) in Thessalonica, after its recognition as
capital of the sector of the Roman Empire assigned to him in the
period of the Tetrarchy.
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BEREA
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Paul
and Silas left for Berea under cover of darkness, smuggled out
of Thessalonica by the Christians. They walked along the Via Egnatia,
but branched off at Pella and passed through beautiful, lush,
verdant countryside.
At the time Paul the Apostle and his companions came to Berea,
the city was the populous capital of the Third Meris of Macedonia.
Spread over the foothills of densely wooded Mt Bermion, it had
occupied the same site since its founding, which is lost in the
depths of history. Macedonians settled there around 700 BC, but
the first mention is by Thucydides, in his account of the Athenians’
campaigns in Potidaia. Following the fate of the other Macedonian
cities, Berea was subjugated to Roman rule in 168 BC, to emerge
in imperial times as one of the leading cities of Macedonia. Its
large and lively population included many Jews, who had a flourishing
synagogue. As is recorded in the Acts of the Apostles, when Paul
and Silas "... arrived, they went into the synagogue of the
Jews" (17: 10), who "were more fair-minded than those
in Thessalonica, in that they received the word with all readiness
and searched the Scriptures daily to find out whether these things
were so" (Acts 17:11). Among the congregation were members
of the wealthy classes, Hebrews and proselytes and a large number
of women.
However,
news of Paul's activity in Berea soon reached Thessalonica, and
the Apostle's enemies there sent men to foment trouble. Paul's
companions immediately led him away from the city, but Timothy
and Silas remained. The new Church needed them. Because they had
been studying Holy Scriptures with interest throughout Paul's
sojourn, someone had to stay behind to explain the Gospel of Christ.
In any case, the mob vented its enmity primarily on Paul. In recompense,
Berea gave the Apostle of Nations a worthy collaborator, Sopatros
son of Pyrrhos, who later accompanied him for a long time after
his return to Asia.
The
place where Paul is said to have stood and preached the Gospel
to the Bereans, the so-called "Bema of St Paul", has
now been laid out most impressively. Since 1995, a series of religious,
cultural, athletic and artistic events entitled the "Pauleia"
has been organized, culminating in a scientific conference.
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ATHENS
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Leaving Berea Paul sailed for Athens in AD 51. The journey lasted
twelve days. Athens in the mid – first century AD was very
different from the illustrious city of Classical times. It had
been looted systematically of its works of art by the Roman conquerors
and the decline of morality was becoming apparent.
The
ship carrying Apostle Paul dropped anchor at Phaleron (Faliron)
which was then the main port of Athens, as it had been in earlier
times. It was from Phaleron that Theseus had set sail for Crete
and Menestheus had departed for Troy with fifty ships. During
the Ottoman period the region was called "Uts-purgas. Turkish
for "three towers", which were actually standing until
the nineteenth century and served as guard-posts. The harbour
was located between the estuary of the Kephisos river and the
small church of St George, which probably stands on the site of
the wharf of ancient Phaleron.
From
there commenced the road to Athens, which Paul took after his
disembarkation. One century later, the traveller Pausanias observed
that "The Athenians have also another harbour at Munychia,
with a temple of Artemis of Munychia, and yet another at Phalerum,
as I have already stated, and near it is a sanctuary of Demeter
... and altars of the gods named Unknown ..." (I 1.4). In
the Acts of the Apostles (17:23) Paul does not specify exactly
where he saw the altar with the inscription "TO THE UNKNOWN
GOD". All he says is "... as I was passing through and
considering the objects of your worship, I even found an altar
with this inscription: TO THE UNKNOWN GOD". It is very possible
that he saw one of the altars referred to by Pausanias. It should
be noted that in Late Antiquity many people dedicated altars and
ex-votos to "unknown gods", either because of superstition
or because they wanted to pre-empt the consequence of neglecting
gods of which they were unaware. In the Acts of the Apostles (17:16-34)
there is a description of Paul's stay and activity in Athens and
his sermon to the Athenians.
While
he was waiting for Silas and Timothy to arrive from Macedonia,
he strolled through Athens, discussing with its inhabitants, in
the synagogue and the agora, and was very upset by the plethora
of idols. By the same token, Paul's preaching of Christ's death
by crucifixion and his resurrection bemused some Epicurean and
Stoic philosophers, who dismissed him as a "babbler"
(Acts 17:18).
Paul
was not hounded out of Athens for his teaching. On the contrary,
he was taken to the Areopagus (Mars Hill) in order to address
the Athenians formally and analytically, for as is commented in
the Acts (17:21), "... all the Athenians and the foreigners
who were there spent their time in nothing else but either telling
or hearing of some new thing".
Areopagus
is the name of the hill to the west of the Acropolis of Athens,
where those who had committed serious crimes were tried. The worship
of the Eumenes or Erinyes, demonic creatures who avenged blood
crimes, is attested archaeologically and the "Boule from
the Areios Pagos" was associated with this place from very
early times. When the Supreme Court convened to try murder cases,
it did so on the Areopagus, whereas for other issues its members
met at the seat of the Archon Basileus, the Royal Stoa, in the
Athenian Agora. This stoa was one of the most famous public buildings
in Athens and the first remains of it came to light in 1970, close
to the cutting of the rock in which the tracks of the modern electric
railway were laid. It served as a kind of archive of fundamental
laws of the state, housed the basileus in the period after Solon
and was the venue for public functions.
The
Athenians listened to Paul, who had the opportunity of expounding
the teachings of Jesus Christ. In an age of intellectual, spiritual
and social decadence, those who dabbled in philosophy were still
interested in new ideas and new beliefs. Paul's reference to the
resurrection of the dead was a stumbling block for his further
preaching of the Gospel in Athens. Even though the immortality
of the soul was the ultimate point of Platonic teaching, it was
not possible then for people to comprehend the resurrection of
the dead. Nevertheless, the seminal word had now been sown . Furthermore,
the bright and cloudless Attic sky, the Hellenic sense of beauty
and piety were factors favourable to the development of the teaching
of Paul, who revealed to the Athenians that "God who made
the world and everything in it, since he is Lord of heaven and
earth, does not dwell in temples made with hands. Nor is he worshipped
with men's hands, as though he needed anything, since he gives
to all life, breath, and all things" (Acts 17:24- 35).
Paul’s
speech to the Athenian nobility is forever engraved on a stone
at the very place where he spoke on the Hill of Areopagus. His
short but powerful speech had an immediate effect. One of the
members of the Supreme Court of Athens (Areios Pagos), Dionysios
the Areopagite, converted to Christianity.
St
Dionysios the Areopagite, of whom it was said that he had travelled
to Egypt at the time Christ was crucified and, realizing that
it was most extraordinary for darkness to fall at mid-day on Good
Friday, had uttered the famous phrase, "Either God is suffering
or all is destroyed", was baptized straight away, with all
his family, as soon as he heard the Apostle Paul. He was martyred
during the reign of the Roman Emperor Domitian, or according to
other sources, of Trajan or Hadrian. Dionysios Areopagite is the
patron saint of Athens and protector of judges, his feast day
is celebrated on 3 October and by a decision of the Church of
Greece he is commemorated as its founder. In 1887 a church dedicated
to Paul the Apostle was built in the center of Athens.
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CORINTH
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It
is not known how Paul reached Corinth. He might have journeyed
overland via Eleusis (mod. Elefsina) and Megara, but it is possible
that he voyaged by sea. What is certain is that he left Athens
with much on his mind regarding the Athenians’ attitude
towards his teaching, as well as concerning the state of the Church
of Macedonia. Indeed, as Paul departed from Athens, Timothy was
already making his way to Thessalonica.
Corinth
was a totally different city from Athens. The throng of merchants
from all parts of the then-known world, and people of all races
and mentalities, created another milieu, quite unlike the academic
atmosphere of Athens.
The
city was founded, way back in the past, by Aletes, descendant
of the mythical hero Herakles. It was ruled at various times by
personalities such as the tyrants Kypselos and Periander. It sided
with the Spartans against Athens during the Peloponnesian War
and for many years the activity of its rulers had a direct impact
on the fortunes of other Greek cities, in Classical and Hellenistic
times. In the Archaic period in particular, Corinth enjoyed a
great economic and cultural development, as centre of production
for excellent quality pottery and bronzes. The Protocorinthian
vases are exquisitely painted and the typical shape is the aryballos.
Corinth
was in a key location for communications between the Peloponnese
and the rest of Greece, and was a bridge for voyages from East
to West. Thus the city emerged as head of the Achaean Confederacy,
to be reduced to heaps of rubble in 146 BC, when Mommius subjugated
it to Rome. So great was the conqueror's hatred of its fame and
wealth that Corinth was razed to the ground and remained a ghost-city
for many years.
Almost
one hundred years elapsed before the Romans decided to rebuild
Corinth and to found a Roman colony upon the ruins of the once
mighty city-state. Its population consisted of Greeks and Roman
freedmen and veterans, as well as people from foreign lands. Astarte
and Melikertes, Cybele and Attis, Isis and Serapis, Dionysos and
Poseidon, but above all Aphrodite Pandeme, composed a pantheon
of gods worshiped by the people of Corinth. The new city was built
on the traces of the old. New buildings were erected and old ones
were reconstructed.
In
Corinth, Paul forged a friendship with the Jews Aquila and Priscilla,
who were, like him, tent-makers and seem to have known something
already about Christ. He lived and worked with them and each Sabbath
taught the Jews and the Greeks. Most of the Jews were not persuaded
that Jesus was the Messiah, and at one point Paul shook the dust
from his clothes and went to reside in the house of Justus, who
was a proselyte who lived near the synagogue. Among those who
did believe was the ruler of the synagogue, Crispus, who was baptized
with all his family.
One
night Paul heard God in a dream, saying to him: “Do no be
afraid, but speak, and do not keep silent; for I am with you,
and no one will attack you to hurt you; for I have many people
in this city" (Acts 18:9-10). In the meantime, Silas and
Timothy had arrived from Macedonia, and the number of those who
came over to Christianity began to increase. Some of the best-known
names are: Stephanus, Fortunatus, Chloe and Achaecus. The converts
were from all walks of life. Apostle Paul stayed in Corinth for
quite some time. It is estimated that he went to the city early
in the year AD 50 and remained for a year and a half.
The
Acts of the Apostles record that at some moment the Jews of Corinth
ganged up against Paul and gave free rein to their passions. They
dragged him before the courts, accusing him of trying illegally
to persuade people to follow his teaching. On the Bema was the
Roman Proconsul Gallio, whose name appears in an inscription at
Delphi. This fact helped in dating securely the period of Paul's
Apostolic journeys.
The
action of the Jews in Corinth backfired. Gallio listened to their
charges and, before Paul even opened his mouth, told them frankly:
"If it were a matter of wrongdoing or wicked crimes, O Jews,
there would be a reason for my bearing with you. But if it is
a question of words and names and your own law, look to it yourselves;
for I do not want to be a judge of such matters” (Acts 18:14-15).
And he dismissed the accusers without further ado. They vent their
rage on the ruler of the synagogue, Sosthenes, whom they beat.
The Jews’ suit before the Roman Proconsul proved fruitless
because the problem with Paul was the hostility of his fellow
Jews and not of the Gentiles. In the face of many adversities,
the Church of Corinth developed.
A
few weeks after the trial, Paul the Apostle decided to leave Corinth.
He had to speed to Ephesus. He bid his brethren farewell and departed,
in the company of Silas, Timothy, Aquila and Priscilla. He returned
to Corinth in AD 57 and stayed in the house of Gaius, leaving
there to head for Macedonia. Between his journeys he wrote two
epistles, Corinthians I and II, from Ephesus. In these he endeavours
to consolidate unity and to eradicate divisions. "Now I plead
with you, brethren, by the name of our Lord Jesus Christ. that
you all speak the same thing, and that there will be no divisions
among you . . .", he writes in I Corinthians (1:10).
He
speaks to them of the power and value of love, and chapter 13
of the same epistle is a "Hymn of Love": "Though
I speak with the tongues of men and of angels, but have not love,
I have become as sounding brass or a clanging cymbal".
Apostle
Paul is the patron saint of Corinth and a magnificent church has
been built in his honour.
Places associated with Paul’s mission journey to
Corinth
The
area over which the agora of Corinth extended is today an enormous
archaeological site. At its heart is the ancient and revered Doric
temple of Apollo, one of the most famous in Antiquity. There are
numerous stoas and countless shops, smaller temples of Tyche (Fortuna),
Asklepios and Hermes, a sanctuary of Athena Chalinitis, a theatre,
an odeum, bathhouses, fountains - the Lerna, Glauke and Peirene
-, basilicas with portrait statues of the imperial family, and
wide streets such as the road to Lechaion and many more monuments
described with clarity by Pausanias in his work "Corinthiaka".
In about the middle of the central row of shops was the "bema"
from which the Roman Proconsul (governor) addressed the citizens
gathered in the agora. In the Middle Ages, a small church was
built on this spot, the foundations of which have survived.
The
sea port of Corinth on the Corinthian Gulf is Lechaion, which
is closer to the city and where there were ship sheds and a naval
station. At the time of the city's prosperity, long walls linked
the harbour and naval station with Corinth, and remains of these
were uncovered by archaeologists during the past one hundred years.
During the Roman period there were wharves and moles at Lechaion,
constructed of huge rectangular blocks of poros stone. The port
was in a location of major strategic importance.
After
the rebuilding of Corinth, its second harbour, Cenchrea, was built
on the Saronic Gulf, near Isthmia. Its fortification acted as
a wave-breaker in stormy weather. Today, a large part of it is
submerged beneath the sea, and only a small section can be seen
on land. A small complex of rooms close to the south harbour wall
belonged perhaps to the warehousing facilities of the port. Next
to it was a temple, possibly of Isis. There are also ruins of
a three-aisled basilica of the fourth century AD, beneath the
floor of which over seventy burials sites were discovered. Close
to the north harbour wall are remnants of Late Roman and Early
Christian buildings.
At
Cenchrea, where there is evidence of human habitation from prehistoric
times, the population in the first century AD was larger than
that of Lechaion. This is underlined by the express reference
by Apostle Paul in his Letter to the Romans, to "the church
in Cenchrea" (16:1) and the recommendation to the Romans
of Deaconess Phoebe, who seems to have brought this epistle to
Rome, in AD 52-53. In the spring of AD 53, Paul, accompanied by
Aquila and Priscilla, sailed forth from the port of Cenchrea,
bound for Syria.
At
the gateway in the wall of Corinth, at which the road from Cenchrea
terminated, Alexander had met the philosopher Diogenes, who lived
in a tub, that is a clay storage jar.
It
is mentioned in the Acts of the Apostles (19:22) that while Apostle
Paul was in Ephesus he sent his disciples Timothy and Erastus
to Macedonia. Moreover, in his Epistle to the Romans, Paul refers
to Erastus as follows: "Erastus, the treasurer of the city,
greets you" (16:23). It seems that at the time the Epistle
to the Romans was written, Erastus, who is counted among the Seventy
Apostles, was living in Corinth. An inscription bearing the name
Erastus, which reads:
ERASTUS PRO AEDILITATE S P STRAVIT
declaring
that the pavement had been laid with his care, was found near
the theatre of Corinth. The pavement is dated in the mid-first
century AD, but the inscription was carved later. It is believed
that Erastus, mentioned in the inscription, is to be identified
as the treasurer of the city of Corinth during Paul’s Apostolic
journeys.
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